Now that it’s corn season, everyone has an opinion about the best way to cook corn. In a pot of boiling water? Lightly steamed?

And what about grilling? Is it best to soak the ears in their husks first; pull back the husks, remove the silk and wrap them back up before grilling; or remove the husk and silk and wrap them in tin foil? The discussion will continue as the embers burn low.

I stand by the simplest method. Just husk the corn, remove the silk and grill those cobs naked so they’re lightly charred, sweet, slightly crisp with a roasty popcorn taste.

While you can’t beat a thick smear of butter, a sprinkle of coarse salt and pepper, I love anointing the cobs with a tangy-hot Mexican sauce and a dusting of salty cheese. The tangy-hot combination is remarkably simple. Just whisk together good mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, salt and pepper. It amplifies the corn’s grilled flavor and balances its sweetness.

Corn season is short, so don’t limit the options. Try grilled corn with olive oil, basil and Parmesan cheese; tzatziki and curry powder; or cumin, chili crisp-whipped butter and a splash of rice wine vinegar. These combinations are not for corn purists who abide by their butter and salt.

This is messy corn! Forget the skewers with prongs that attach to the end of the cobs and keep fingers clean. Keep a garden hose next to the picnic table and plenty of napkins on hand.

Why not toss a few extra cobs on the grill while you’re at it. Leftovers, already seasoned, can be transformed into a great pasta or whole grain salad. Simply cut the kernels from the cobs and toss with hot pasta, a little oil and a sprinkling of cheese.

Grilled Corn with Spicy Aioli

Serves 6.

Grilling corn gives it a notably smoky, sweet char, but broiling works nicely, too. Mix up the dressing to have it on hand and ready to slather all over the sweet, hot ears as they come off the grill. If you don’t have a grill, turn on the broiler, and just watch that the cobs do not burn. From Beth Dooley.

¼ c. good quality mayonnaise, such as Dukes, Hellman’s or Sir Kensington

Zest and juice of 1 lime

¼ tsp. ancho chili powder, to taste

Coarse salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

6 ears fresh corn, shucked

2 to 3 tbsp. crumbled cotija, feta or ricotta cheese

2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for serving

Lime wedges for serving

Directions

Preheat the grill or broiler to high.

In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, lime zest and juice, ancho chili powder, and salt and pepper to taste.

Grill the corn until lightly charred and cooked through, about 7 to 10 minutes. Remove and slather the hot cobs with the seasoned mayonnaise. Sprinkle with the crumbled cheese and the chopped cilantro. Serve the corn with more cilantro and lime wedges on the side.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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