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JeanMarie Brownson: Brussels sprouts for the win

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

I enjoy Brussels sprouts several times a week during this time of year. I roast them in the air fryer, shred them for salads, skewer them on the grill, puree them into soup, and include them in sheet-pan dinners. My only hesitation about serving these beautiful orbs is when a sister visits, mostly because I can’t remember which one of them hates Brussels sprouts.

Undoubtedly, a bit of oil combined with high-heat roasting brings out the best in these tiny cabbages. Just ask anyone with an air fryer — you can’t stop eating them. A roasting pan and convection oven can achieve the same crispy exterior and tender interior results with just a little more oil than needed in an air fryer. I use the oven when roasting a big batch.

The strong vegetal flavor of Brussels sprouts mellows with the addition of other bold flavors, such as onion, garlic and bacon. Jalapenos, pickled with sugar and vinegar, offer a bold, sweet heat that complements the earthy flavor of the sprout. Add them all for a delicious treat that works well as a shared appetizer or an indulgent side, as in the recipe that follows.

Shredded Brussels sprouts are a weekday winner. Trim small sprouts and shred them using a food processor’s slicing disk. If your sprouts are large, shred carefully with a mandolin or a very sharp knife. The quickest option? Buy pre-shredded Brussels sprouts from the produce section. Add the thin shreds to salads and stir-fries.

Like roasting, using a generous amount of oil on shredded sprouts makes them tender and mouthwatering, with minimal off-putting cabbage odor. A little cream or coconut milk also helps tame any bitterness.

Briefly blanch Brussels sprouts intended for a cold salad or veggie platter. Make sure to leave the pan uncovered while they cook to help retain their bright green color.

Whatever you do, avoid overcooking Brussels sprouts. No one — not even my other sister — likes soggy, bitter vegetables.

Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Bacon, Sweet Jalapenos and Crunchy Onions

Makes 4 servings

Note: Sweet and spicy pickle slices can stand in for the sweet pickled jalapenos; dice the pickle slices before adding.

1 to 1 1/4 pounds, 16 to 20, medium-large Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed, halved

3 thick strips (3 ounces) smoked bacon, diced

1 small red onion, diced

2 tablespoons vegetable oil for high-heat cooking, such as expeller-pressed canola, safflower oil or grapeseed oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup drained sweet jalapeno slices, see recipe, or substitute bottled sweet jalapeno slices

1/2 cup shaved Parmesan cheese

About 1/2 cup french fried onions

Chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees on convection or 425 degrees on conventional setting. Put Brussels sprouts, diced bacon, onion and oil onto a large nonstick baking sheet. Toss to coat everything well with the oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer. Roast, stirring once or twice, until sprouts are fork-tender with lots of crispy edges and leaves, about 25 minutes.

2 Add sliced jalapenos to pan and toss to coat well. Serve right away garnished with cheese, crispy onions and cilantro.

Sweet Jalapeno Slices

Makes about 2 cups with liquid

8 jalapenos

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

 

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1. Wearing gloved hands, slice 8 jalapenos (about 10 ounces) crosswise into 1/4-inch thick rounds; you’ll have 2 generous cups. Rinse slices well; then drain.

2. Put 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder and 1/4 teaspoon turmeric into a small saucepan. Heat to a boil while stirring to dissolve sugar.

3. Add sliced jalapenos to the boiling syrup. Cook, stirring often, until jalapenos are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.

4. Remove from heat. Cool completely in syrup. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for a week or so.

Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Lemongrass and Cream

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 pound Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed

3 tablespoons butter

1 or 2 tablespoons avocado oil

2 small shallots, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/2 cup unsweetened canned coconut milk or heavy whipping cream

1 tablespoon refrigerated lemongrass paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped fresh cilantro

1. Use a very sharp knife (or a mandolin set to thin slice) and slice Brussels sprouts very thinly. Use clean hands to separate slices into thin shreds.

2. Melt butter in large nonstick over medium heat. Add oil, shallots and Brussels sprouts. Saute, stirring often, until Brussels sprouts are crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in coconut milk, lemongrass, salt and pepper. Simmer just long enough to thicken the pan juices, about 2 minutes.

3. Remove from heat and serve warm garnished with cilantro.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2025 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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