This wonderfully rich and buttery cake is everything a pound cake should be: dense but also moist, with just a hint of bright, citrusy flavor. Buttermilk adds moisture and tenderness to the cake.

You can make this recipe from the cookbook “Desserts From the Famous Loveless Cafe” by Alisa Huntsman (Artisan, $24.95) as either a full pound cake using a Pullman loaf pan or divide the batter into three mini loaves.

If you go big, be sure to cover the top with foil during the last 15 minutes of baking so it doesn’t get too brown.

If you like, finish the cake by brushing on a simple lemon glaze: Bring 2 tablespoons water and 2 tablespoons sugar to a boil on stovetop, remove from heat and stir in 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice.

Lemon Pound Cake

PG tested

1¾ sticks (14 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened

1¾ cups sugar

Grated zest of 3 lemons

3 whole eggs pus 3 egg yolks

2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon baking soda

½ cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Grease 3 small loaf pans (5 by 3 by 2 inches) or 1 large loaf pan. Line bottoms with parchment paper and grease paper.

In a mixing bowl, cream butter with sugar and lemon zest until light and fluffy. Add whole eggs and egg yolks in 2 or 3 additions, scraping the sides of the bowl well and mixing completely after each addition.

Sift flour and baking soda over the bowl, pour in the buttermilk and fold together by hand.

Place batter in large loaf pan or divide among 3 small loaf pans.

Bake for about 45 minutes for small pans and about 1 hour for large pan. You’ll know it’s done when a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the center of cake comes out clean. Let cakes stand in their pans for about 5 minutes, then turn out on a wire rack, peel off parchment paper and let cool completely before slicing.

Makes 3 5-inch loaves or 1 large loaf.

— “Desserts From the Famous Loveless Cafe” by Alisa Huntsman

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