Cold-Damaged Plants
Q: My landscape looked terrible this summer. It is only a year old, and many of the larger shrubs and evergreens don't have big root systems yet. There isn't a lot of topsoil, and the plants dried out too often over the summer. Even with some fall rain, I worry about them over the winter. After the first week of cold weather, I noticed that some of the evergreens were starting to turn brown. Is there anything that can be done to help them now? Can I cover them?
A: It will help your plants to go into winter with plenty of water in the stems and roots, plus extra water in the soil. Winter winds and dry air will take water out of the plants, so the more they have available, the better. Before the ground freezes, give each of the flower beds and all of the trees and shrubs a good, long soaking. Use a shovel to check how deep the water has moved into the soil. It is often surprising to see that water hasn't moved very deep as you think it would have.
After watering, apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch to help stop the water from evaporating out of the soil. The mulch can be applied even after the ground is frozen to help keep it frozen.
The first symptom to show up on cold-damaged plants is brown, dead leaves. Lawns and evergreen shrubs will show symptoms first. Plants with or without leaves may have bark and bud damage that won't be visible for a few days to a few weeks.
Boxwoods and arborvitae are often the first to have brown leaves, but they sometimes stay green through the winter and then suddenly turn brown in late winter. But by themselves, brown leaves don't mean the plant will die. Leaves are often expendable, even on broadleaved evergreens such as hollies, boxwoods and rhododendrons. Although your other plants may not be showing any symptoms yet, they may also be frost damaged.
The preferred treatment for frost-damaged plants is to just leave everything alone until spring. Dead leaves don't always mean a dead plant, so don't prune anything unless it is really obviously dead. Wait until the plants are growing again, so you can determine which parts are live wood. Don't try to force growth by fertilizing or watering.
Covering plants works best for a frosty night or two, but not for weeks at a time. You need a waterproof cover that goes all the way to the ground without touching any leaves and is capable of insulating the plants. A blanket and plastic work better than either alone. Plastic by itself that touches leaves transfers heat and allows the leaf to freeze; but during the day, the plastic acts as a greenhouse and overheats the plants. Cold weather that is also wet with snow or rain will make a blanket so heavy that it can break a plant. A blanket pinned or tied down that is covered with plastic can protect a plant for a short time.
Another problem besides the cold that may have caused your evergreens to turn brown is a drying wind. Putting up a temporary wind block can help protect the plants.
Much of the country has been warmer than average for the past few weeks. Even though most native trees and shrubs are going dormant on schedule, some landscape plants may not be fully ready for the fast drop in temperatures this week. They may develop the symptoms mentioned in this article, and the preferred treatment will be the same. Wait until spring before doing any pruning.
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Email questions to Jeff Rugg at info@greenerview.com. To find out more about Jeff Rugg and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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