Mother Nature and Money Meet in Palm Beach
If there's a destination in the United States with a more convergent personality than Palm Beach, Riviera Beach and Singer Island, Florida, I can't imagine where it is. One morning during my recent visit there I observed nattily dressed men and women playing the genteel game of croquet. That pastime traces its roots back to England in the 1860s, when it was promoted by the Earl of Essex and became a popular, socially accepted form of leisure.
That afternoon I watched a spirited polo match, which originated in ancient Persia more than 2,000 years ago and evolved to become known as "The Sport of Kings," popular in high society.
When evening arrived, I ate dinner during my monthlong stay at a number of what can only be described as "dive bars" that are dotted throughout the community. They compete for customers with white-tablecloth fine-dining establishments that offer excellent food at sometimes excessive prices.
This diversity is one of the Palm Beach area's numerous inviting and intriguing traits. Walking or driving in the region introduces visitors to a smorgasbord of things to do and see that range from upscale to budget-friendly, from interesting man-made attractions to some of Mother Nature's most magnificent handiworks.
For starters, Florida means inviting seashores, and this location has its share of them. Those seeking a serene setting and calm waters often head for Sandy Point Beach. Trails meandering inland from the Riviera Municipal Beach cross dunes and coastal hammocks, and this stretch of sand offers excellent shelling. Ocean Reef Park is often pounded by powerful waves that can challenge all but the most accomplished swimmers.
This oceanfront location attracted Native Americans at least 3,000 years ago. Evidence of their habitation includes pre-Columbian archaeological complexes consisting of a burial mound and cemeteries.
Early white settlers built the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse around 1860. Twenty years later Standard Oil tycoon Henry Flagler constructed three resort hotels that transformed the tropical landscape into a winter resort for the wealthy. Then he extended the Florida East Coast Railway to the area.
In 1902, Flagler built a spectacular mansion as a gift for his bride, a beaux-arts-styled manor adorned with pink aluminum-leaf wallpaper that was more expensive at the time than gold. The 4,750-square-foot Grand Hall, Library with its painted cast-plaster ceiling and silk- and wood-lined Drawing Room give visitors a feel for the opulent lifestyle of the wealthy at that time. So vast is that castle-like structure that my first thought upon entering was that if I had ever lived there, I would have needed a map to find my way around.
Those who are there at midday can segue into a "Gilded Age Style" lunch in the Cafe des Beaux-Arts. Housed in the Pavilion, the 19th-century iron-and-glass railway palace also displays Flagler's private railroad car.
Palm Beach continues to live up to its reputation as a retreat for the super-rich. Several years ago, Forbes magazine reported that the city was home to at least 30 billionaires -- that's billion with a B. As I strolled along Worth Avenue, past high-end stores such as Valentina Kova, Versace and Ralph Lauren, I agreed with its description as one of the most beautiful shopping venues in the country, combining European sophistication with elegant style and grace.
I also enjoyed the balance provided by stores, restaurants, bars and other establishments that cater largely to locals. Along with their touches of resident vibe, they offer opportunities to meet and mingle with folks who live in the area. Often they can recommend below-the-radar places to see and things to do that visitors otherwise might miss.
In an area where Technicolor flowers and multihued foliage grow wild, gardens might seem redundant. However, formal plantings add an inviting painter's palette to the landscape. Some, like the Ann Norton Sculpture Gardens, introduce human touches to Mother Nature's handiwork. Norton was a renowned sculptor whose works are displayed among some 250 species of rare tropical palms, cycads and native plants, as well as in her home.
Where there are sea, sand and soil there's likely to be wildlife, and it abounds at this destination. The John MacArthur Beach State Park offers sightings of sea turtles, osprey and pelicans. Hikers in Phil Foster Park frequently encounter gophers, tortoises and herons. Droll-looking mammals referred to as sea cows congregate in large numbers in Manatee Lagoon, while in the visitor center there I enjoyed close-up views of animals of various sizes as they enjoyed a meal of lettuce and vegetables.
Getting close-up and personal with those endearing creatures is one opportunity among many to meet and mingle with denizens of the Palm Beach area of Florida. Other experiences range from reliving the Gilded Age of high society to enjoying magnificent natural settings to checking out fun and funky places at which to sup and sip.
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WHEN YOU GO
For more information: thepalmbeaches.com
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Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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